Here’s why designer payal khandwala chose brocade for her new collection
Somewhere between the structural symmetry and textural harmony, which define the obvious creative creative Arch of Mumbai-Based Fashion Designer Payal Khandwala’s Latest Spring-SSUMER COLLELENE World of subtle details. Released under the designer’s eponymous label, the untitled collection has been assigned to the chronological number of the edits that payal hasl ha curated Till Date – 13. Version of Brocade, while Making a Modest Attempt at Solving The Wardrobe Crisis for Occasions that are Neither Too Formal, Nor Too Casual.
The collection champions Silk and a modified, More MUTED Version of Brocade | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Payal, Who Pursued A Degree in Fine Arts at the Parsons School of Design in New York, Before Launching Her Debut Collection in 2012, Explains The Intent That DicTates Her Recent Work. “I consciously refrain from naming collections in general unless there is a very specific starting point. Even when I’D Paint, I Titled My Canvases Untitled. Spoon-feds the viewer to have a response.
Payal’s collection also Pivots on Reverse Engineering | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
The collection, she says, has been in the making for the past months. And thought she admits to silk and brocade being unusual fabrics to opt for a summer edit, she elaberates on the techniques that add value to its value to its language. “What I wanted to do this time was to continue using brocade as a craft, even though it’s not festive season. While we Typically associate brocade with gold and seilver thread I Replaced I Replaced That, whilst stil a woven detail and it using all the technical aspects of brocade, the outcome is a bit more subtle. Guess, is Quier Luxury, “She says, adding that she purposely kept linens and cotton at bay. Like Most of Her Collections, this release is also limited to a less pieces.
Fashion Designer Payal Khandwala | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
“The mood board of my collections, you even make say, depends on my own. I only make clothes that I wear. Was looking to make somewhating that Women could wear to elevated prêt occasions. So, I Figured the customer that wears the garments for a dinner or a cocktail Air-Conditioned Environment for the Most Part. In that case, Silk Doesn’s A Big Hindrance Alaso Because Center Stage in My Garments. I make clothes that are easy to wear, pack and travel with, “She says.
Payal gets the fabrics woven by craft clusters in Varanasi and Phulia in West Bengal | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
As an example, she lists a long black jacket, which works well as a layer. “We also have a mustard, free sized jacket; Relaxed and like most of my garments, it is very comfortable and fuss free when it’s cooler indoors. There’s alli’s alli’s alli’s alli’s also Comfortable Being a Bit More Creative With Silhouettes. Too formal or that felt too traditional, and whilst travel
Payal focuses on the construction of the garment, with respect and drapes | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Payal says that she strictly focuses on the construction of the garment, with respect and drapes. “If i’mm making a jacket, I will return the lapel, add a belt or an architectural element or detail like our signature asymmetrical cuffs. The olive-grayen jacket, “She says. Payal’s collection also Pivots on Reverse Engineering. “For instance, if I want the Trouser Hem to have Nine Inches of Black, then shift to four inches of yellow and Six of silver at the waist, then the fabric is woven in that weight for thorough Blacking at the Loom Stage. Neither has embelishments nor embroidery. The weave is always the hero, ”
The collection also features a toned-down color palette | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Payal Gets Her Textiles Woven by Craft Clusters in Varanasi and Phulia in West Bengal. She also has three workshops and two studios in Colaba, Along with two outlets, one in kala ghoda and another in new Delhi. With textured brocade and silk at its core, the collection also features a toned-down color palette. Oscillating Between Murky Yellow and IndiGo, it tickles the eyes with spicy reds and soft olive green.
A Garment from Payal’s New Collection | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
She says, “i’m more interested in colour as intellect vs ornament. Well with it and then picked the olive as neutral to push back the two string colors. Black and ivory, for the days when you do’t want to make another decision about what you want to wear.
The collection starts at ₹ 27,800 on payalkhandwala.com and the brand’s stores in Mumbai and Delhi.
Published – April 29, 2025 12:25 pm IST
